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Subject: UC DAVIS CUTTINGS Replies: 42
Posted By: Cooper Views: 1,866
 
Got mine a few weeks ago. VdB and CdD. Put them in shoe boxes with some coir and perlite and they seem to like it. The first one is the VdB

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Subject: Tasty VdB Replies: 2
Posted By: Cooper Views: 198
 
Thanks Frank. Definitely looking forward to more of those next year.

Subject: Tasty VdB Replies: 2
Posted By: Cooper Views: 198
 
Got to taste the only fig the VdB had for her first year. She is pretty riddled with the FMV though so the fruit was pretty small. Had a very sweet berry flavor though with a good little seed crunch. Here's to hoping she grows out of it a little more next year.

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Subject: Olympian Green Cuttings Replies: 20
Posted By: Cooper Views: 829
 
Dale, I picked that one cause I grew up watching just about every Clint Eastwood movie with my dad so it just kinda seemed right. I do have an uncle named Gary tho. :)

Subject: Olympian Green Cuttings Replies: 20
Posted By: Cooper Views: 829
 
Hi Jsdfrance. They weren't root suckers but they were very close. I should have piled up some soil around it for a few weeks and seen if they would have put out roots and then just did as you mentioned below. I'll give that a go next time around. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsfrance
Hi Cooper,
Did those root-suckers come out with roots ?
I usually wait for them to have some roots and simply pull them out of their place and put them in the ground or in a pot. I remove the older leaves and leave 2 or 3 leaves .
I water them every day.
Most of the times I don't use a greenhouse on them. But this year I'm doing it on some, until they wilt and perk up and after a week they are out in the wild.
The reason is that those trees were raised outside so I'm keeping them there. I don't want to soften them.

I had two I left ouside of the greenhouse that were taking time to perk up, and I put a plate full of water under each pot, and that helps them a lot, giving the time at their roots to become efficient at wicking water.
After a week I had to remove the plates because of our unusual rainy weather this summer.

PS: As for succulent cuttings, I'll be opening a topic on that. I got 3 of 5 going - because of my way of pinching.
      I saw roots surface on their pots, and they have been for 2 weeks out of the greenhouse and seem happy and growing new leaves, so they are up and running on their own feets...

Subject: Olympian Green Cuttings Replies: 20
Posted By: Cooper Views: 829
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BronxFigs
John C.

Thanks for the added information.  It sounds like your tiny trees grew like weeds.  Congratulations!  We will both get to taste some figs next year.  As I mentioned, I regretfully pinched out all the new main-crop figs off my Olympian trees.  I'm glad that you let a fig or two develop.  I think Dennis/snaglpus has some older Olympian trees.  Maybe he will show us his figs when the time comes.

Oh, Dennis.....


Frank



Thanks Frank!  I'm really looking forward to it.  Here's a pic of the tree as it is now.  It's got just the one fig on it but it.  I plan on air layering the two branches at the bottom next spring.

John

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Subject: Pruning and Trimming Replies: 5
Posted By: Cooper Views: 407
 
This video was extremely informative for me so I thought I'd share and see if this is how anyone else trims their tree and what they think about this method.


Subject: Olympian Green Cuttings Replies: 20
Posted By: Cooper Views: 829
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BronxFigs
John C.

Just asking out of curiosity....what was the source of your 'Olympian' fig tree?  Has your original 'Olympian' fig tree grown so vigorously that you were able to take suckers from it?

I ask because I bought some Olympian, tissue-cultured, trees from Wellspring Gardens earlier in the season and the trees grew so vigorously that they were starting to set main-crop figs about 1-1/2 months ago.  I nipped the baby figs off, but still, that's a fantastic amount of growth in a few short months.  The plants started off as tiny, wiry, 6" treelets, and grew into 4 ft. trees, with 3/4"+  diameter trunks in less than 4 months.  I will harvest some figs, by next season.

Good luck with your green cuttings.  Almost all of my green cuttings strike roots, while cuttings using older wood usually fail under the same conditions.  The bark rots and then slips off.  Same temps. same mix, same lighting/sun, etc.  Go figure.

Frank


That is some awesome growth Frank!  I think I got it from Wellspring Gardens around March or April and it was a tiny thing maybe 4 inches tall.  I put it in a one gallon pot when I first got it and it grew quite a bit but it seemed to really take off when I put it on the 3 gallon pot a couple months ago despite my negligence with the fertilizer. I had about three or four suckers growing at the bottom that I took off and decided to see if I could get to take.  Hopefully they'll pull through.

I also have a pretty decent size fig growing that I'm letting go to see what happens.  I've pulled all the other ones off.  I'll see if I can get a picture tonight and post so you guys can see how much it's grown, but it has definitely taken off since I bought it. 

Subject: Olympian Green Cuttings Replies: 20
Posted By: Cooper Views: 829
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by garden_whisperer
sounds good, im always looking for cold hardy figs to add to the collection. i will have cuttings  of the followin this fall/winter. MvsB, blue celeste, RdB, Adriatic, desert king, Sal'sG, Violeta Beyerfeinge, hardy chicago, brown turkey, Nordland, Lattarolla, LSU Hollier, and 6 different unknowns. . maybe we can trade or somthing come winter.


Sounds good Dave!  We can definitely work something out and all those varieties sound great, you're a blessed man!

Subject: Olympian Green Cuttings Replies: 20
Posted By: Cooper Views: 829
 
Awesome Dave!  I used to live up in Highland, the place I bought up there had a couple of Celeste and BT trees and that's what got me hooked.  I can definitely get you a cutting from the Olympian if you're interested.

Subject: Olympian Green Cuttings Replies: 20
Posted By: Cooper Views: 829
 
Thanks Gary!  My plan is to buy a roll of burlap and a roll of tar paper to use for winterizing.  Once the leaves fall off I'll wrap in the burlap and then wrap in a cone shape in the tar paper and put a bucket on the top to keep the snow/rain out.  I have to do four that way so we'll see if it works.

Subject: Olympian Green Cuttings Replies: 20
Posted By: Cooper Views: 829
 
I know its a bit late in the season but I decided to go ahead and take a few suckers from the Olympian and see if I can get them to take off. My plan is to keep them going under the grow lights this winter. They're currently sitting out on my back deck in the well-lit but shaded area.

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Subject: Hardy Chicago Replies: 7
Posted By: Cooper Views: 386
 
Finally got to sample one. It was starting to split on the bottom so I decided to take it before the ants discovered it. It could have stood another few days at least. Had a very nice berry flavor though and wasn't too bad for the first year in zone 6.

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Subject: Green Cuttings Replies: 7
Posted By: Cooper Views: 391
 
Attached pic.

Subject: Green Cuttings Replies: 7
Posted By: Cooper Views: 391
 

I have a perfect spot then. Here's a pic of the stem. 

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Subject: Green Cuttings Replies: 7
Posted By: Cooper Views: 391
 
I'll see what I can do about getting a couple of pics.

Subject: Green Cuttings Replies: 7
Posted By: Cooper Views: 391
 
I agree it would too, but I'm just not sure I have enough space in the bottom of the pot to set up an air layer for it.

Subject: Green Cuttings Replies: 7
Posted By: Cooper Views: 391
 
I'm new but I've been doing lots of reading and here's what I plan on doing but I wanted to run it by you guys first to make sure I'm not way off base.

I have a new Olympian tree that I want to cut an activly growing branch off and root it.  The branch is about pencil thin and only 7 or so inches long; one of the little suckers at the bottom.

I plan on cutting off all the leaves except for the little ones at the tip and inserting it at least half way into a mix of moistened 50/50 perlite and UPM in a gallon container with a 1 or 2 gallon plastic bag over the top, possibly with a bamboo shoot to keep the plastick off the cutting, and putting it in the warm garage.

Any of you guys have success with this?  My only initial concern would be that the garage will get too hot?  It's July and typically 90+ degrees in there during the day.  I also have a shaded patio where I could put it.

Thanks and I really appreciate everything I learn from all you guys!

John

Subject: Olympian Replies: 139
Posted By: Cooper Views: 9,883
 
Here's the one I received from wellspring. Gorgeous little plant with no signs of fmv. Sorry if it shows up sideways.

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Subject: Increasing Hardiness Replies: 11
Posted By: Cooper Views: 704
 
I think the take away from the article is in order to increase the cold hardiness of the tree one has to ensure the new growth has time to harden and turn woody. It's the new green growth that is in the most danger. Interesting ways though of restricting growth

Subject: Olympian Replies: 139
Posted By: Cooper Views: 9,883
 
Just placed my order for one of these from Wellspring Gardens. Can't wait.

Subject: Increasing Hardiness Replies: 11
Posted By: Cooper Views: 704
 
Just got this off of http://www.planetfig.com and was wondering if anyone has ever tried ringing the bark on their fig tree to decrease growth and thus harden their fig tree?

"The demise of the Tarring Fig Gardens didn’t signal the end of interest in growing figs commercially in England. A fruit farmer called Justin Brooke took up the challenge in 1951 by importing several different figs from France as a way of extending the range of fruits he grew. Mr Brooke owned a 300 acre commercial fruit farm near Newmarket, Suffolk, growing the usual sorts of fruit but was blessed with an experimental frame of mind and was particularly sceptical of the conventional view that figs were hardly worth growing outdoors in the central areas of Britain. Having read ‘The Compleat Gardner’, an English translation of Jean - Baptiste de La Quintinie’s book ‘Instructions for Fruit and Vegetable Gardens, with a Treatise on the Orange’ and being impressed at what the gardener to Louis XIV had to say about how he grew figs at Versailles, he devoted part of his farm to trial plantings of outdoor fig orchards (and also peaches and apricots). He subsequently published his findings in a book entitled ‘Figs – Out of Doors’.

This book is of interest to anyone growing figs in a climate similar to that of Great Britain and is well worth reading for its practical suggestions. The main point made by Mr Brooke is that success in growing figs in Britain is to ensure that vigorous, lush growth is restricted and short stubby fruitful growth encouraged by various cultural techniques. Brooke states that fruitful growth should have no more than a 3 inch (7.5cm) distance between the nodes, or leaves, on the stem.

He found that planting in specially constructed concrete ‘boxes’ that are sunk into the ground dwarfs figs but the cost in materials and labour makes them unsuitable for mass plantings. He also found that a very heavy clay soil can retard growth to an acceptable level by itself, particularly if feeding is kept to an absolute minimum.

However, the technique he favours above all is to remove a complete ring of bark, about half an inch in (1.3cm) width, from the main stem of a young fig tree, and to then replace it upside down and cover in the same way as covering a conventional graft. This works because the vascular tissue of the phloem, found just underneath the bark, which transports the products of photosynthesis (sugar) throughout the plant has polarity. In other words it doesn’t work as efficiently in transporting food to the root system if turned upside down resulting in a sort of modified ring barking effect but without the danger of killing the plant. Apparently the effect is quite long lasting and reduces the vigour of the fig tree markedly, giving the short compact growth which leads to fruit production. In addition Brooke noted that such sturdy growth is also more cold hardy and so less prone to frost damage in winter.

Justin Brooke died in 1963 and his visionary outdoor peach and fig orchards are now all gone, replaced once more by conventional crops. Sadly, to my knowledge no-one else has taken up the challenge of growing figs commercially in Britain… and certainly not as an outdoor orchard crop. "

Subject: Question, when is the best time to replant my 15-year-old fig tree? Replies: 18
Posted By: Cooper Views: 973
 
Best of luck to you George. My back is still killing me from the digging but it's worth it.

Subject: Air Layers (again) - urgent request for info Replies: 8
Posted By: Cooper Views: 359
 
Pete, Do you usually cut a layer of bark off during your air layering or do they root fine without it?  I'm going to start doing some air layering this summer and was wondering if it really mattered or not. 

Subject: Question, when is the best time to replant my 15-year-old fig tree? Replies: 18
Posted By: Cooper Views: 973
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by genecolin
Cooper it's not to late to remove a lot of those sprouts. It will help the trees survive and you could have a better looking tree.
"gene"


Thanks Gene! I'll see if I can remove a few more and clean it up some.

Subject: Question, when is the best time to replant my 15-year-old fig tree? Replies: 18
Posted By: Cooper Views: 973
 
I just transplanted two this weekend, first time so we'll see how it turns out.  I tried to get as much root ball as I could and I probably should have pruned off more at the top but we'll see how it goes.
Here are some photos, sorry for the blurry one.

There are two Celeste and two Brown Turkey.
IMG_0268.JPG

Here's a pic of the root ball:  
IMG_0269.JPG 

Here's the new home and I added about half a cup of lime to the soil:
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Subject: Anyone Ever Use This Replies: 5
Posted By: Cooper Views: 508
 
I picked up some of this at Maynard's. Should it be a 50/50 mix with course perlite based on the existing ingredients or does something else really need to be included as well?

Subject: Ready to go Replies: 15
Posted By: Cooper Views: 571
 
Those are great pics Bill! I'll definitely do that on the next batch.

Tonycm, what's the name of the rooting cubes you use?

Subject: Ready to go Replies: 15
Posted By: Cooper Views: 571
 
Thanks Pete. I hope it all goes well. It does say its non-toxic at least :)

Subject: Ready to go Replies: 15
Posted By: Cooper Views: 571
 
I used Titebond 2 Premium wood glue. It's fast setting and water resistant.

Subject: Ready to go Replies: 15
Posted By: Cooper Views: 571
 
Thanks Bill! What do people normally use when they don't have wax? Is there anything wrong with using a waterproof wood glue?

Subject: Ready to go Replies: 15
Posted By: Cooper Views: 571
 
Will do. I didn't have any rooting hormone tho.

Subject: Ready to go Replies: 15
Posted By: Cooper Views: 571
 
Gonna try this method. Hopefully I get a few to root and leaf out.

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Subject: cutting growing with no roots Replies: 5
Posted By: Cooper Views: 461
 
Check this thread out. Good info here. http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/when-i-get-leaves-before-roots-6810430?pid=1282023477#post1282023477

Subject: Roots on Roots... Replies: 4
Posted By: Cooper Views: 352
 
Pretty amazing. Now if it just keeps growing I'll be happy.

Subject: Roots on Roots... Replies: 4
Posted By: Cooper Views: 352
 
Got something interesting happening here.  On either the Celeste or Brown Turkey out at the other property (dont know which one is which and the previous owner doesnt remember, but I'll be able to tell once I get a crop on thanks to you guys!) I was doing some trimming and noticed a root that was breaking the surface and getting out to where the mower would get to it next summer.  So I decided I'd prune it from the base of the tree, pull out as much root as I could, stick it in some potting soil, put a trash bag around it, and see what happens.  This was 25 Feb 14 when I did this.  Here are pictures from tonight nearly a month later.

I was thinking it was more of a sucker than an actual root but hopefully I get a tree out of it. :)

John

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Subject: Mail Delivery Replies: 17
Posted By: Cooper Views: 776
 
Thanks guys!

Subject: Mail Delivery Replies: 17
Posted By: Cooper Views: 776
 
Sounds good Dave, much appreciated. 

Subject: Mail Delivery Replies: 17
Posted By: Cooper Views: 776
 
Thanks Dave!  I have a pretty sweet spot on the south-southwest side of the house that gets plenty sun shine that I think will do nicely.  Now I just need a couple more really cold hardy varieties and I'll be all set.

Subject: Mail Delivery Replies: 17
Posted By: Cooper Views: 776
 
Thanks! Now if I can just keep it alive. I've never grown anything more substantial than an avocado seed before but you guys are showing me the way. I appreciate all the good nuggets of info.

Subject: Mail Delivery Replies: 17
Posted By: Cooper Views: 776
 
Sitting pretty in her one gallon pot.

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Subject: Mail Delivery Replies: 17
Posted By: Cooper Views: 776
 
I was surprised too when I opened the box. Those guys are awesome. Would you guys recommend potting it in the one gallon now or wait a few months?

Subject: Mail Delivery Replies: 17
Posted By: Cooper Views: 776
 
Look what I got in the mail today! HC from Hirts and the awesome thing was they put in a heat pack to keep her from getting too cold on the trip.

John

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Subject: Snuggled in baggies Replies: 4
Posted By: Cooper Views: 416
 
Haha all the kids are rooting their cuttings that way nowadays! Imust have been holding the iPad upside down when I took the pics and autorotation took over.

Subject: Snuggled in baggies Replies: 4
Posted By: Cooper Views: 416
 
I cleaned up the excess water with a paper towel. The potting soil was already moist so I just spritzed the surface. The humidity should be enough as far as moisture goes at this point.

Subject: Finally rooting success! Replies: 21
Posted By: Cooper Views: 1,050
 
Congrats Gene! This is my first time trying cuttings as well. I hope mine end up going as well as yours are now.

John

Subject: Snuggled in baggies Replies: 4
Posted By: Cooper Views: 416
 
Mold was getting out of hand in the Smoss so I figured I'd move them to the baggies in 1:1:1 sifted pine nuggets, organic garden soil, and course perlite. Started then on 25 Feb and got good root initials going now.

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Subject: What is causing this leaf issue? Replies: 14
Posted By: Cooper Views: 944
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by can_smokva

tyler,
have you figured this out?
being new to growing cuttings, I ran into the following scenario:
bud swells and bursts open with one or two leaflets.
the growth of these leflets halts and they eventually drop off.
Is is to much humidity onto young leaves or too dry air?
I suppose they drop for one of the two causes/
which one?
it happened to cuttings outside humidity bin as well as to cuttings inside HB.
inside HB, RH is in the range 40-68%
outside HB 20% but I mist occasionally.

Damir



Interested in what's advised.  This is something I'm going to have to deal with soon as well once I get mine out of the rooting media.

Subject: Introductions Replies: 13
Posted By: Cooper Views: 568
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by greysmith
Welcome to the ward. You seem to have come down with an acute case, good luck. I've been, kind of, following the advice I've been reading here. I have some cuttings rolled in damp newspaper on top of the fridge and some in cups in a bucket converted into a humidifier in a South facing window. They all seem to be doing fine. But then, there's one that I started in a jar of plain water on the windowsill, and, one that I just stuck in a pot of dirt, and those are doing fine too. They say you have to find what works best for you. Best out of what options? You have to try different things, and the more the better. Sounds like you already have the equipment to do controlled experiments... and a good source of cuttings. Please keep us updated on what you try, and what results you get.


That's my plan.  I love forums like these where we can experiment and then share the results with everyone else and I'm learning a lot from this forum, again, my thanks to all! 

 

I do have a few that are in potting soil with a gallon freezer bag over the top to keep in some humidity to see how they do as the weeks go by.  I've had what I consider a horrible time with mold on my cuttings;I've been careful to not get them too wet in the S-moss and I've been spraying the recommended dilution amount of Physan-20 on them (not too sure that's helping) but the best thing has been to brush them under warm water with soap and a toothbrush.  I know it's all about the humidity and heat levels and it's just my learning process of where the happy medium is.  They've been in the moss since the 25th of Jan and are showing root initials.  Now if I can just nurse them along until we have decent roots and I can cup them we'll be all set.  I'll make sure to get pictures asap to share.


Subject: Introductions Replies: 13
Posted By: Cooper Views: 568
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cis4elk
Welcome! 
If your HC doesn't come around, Hartman's Plant Co. in Michigan has really nice HC's for a fair price and they show no signs of disease.


Thanks!  I'll keep them in mind.