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Subject: Need to confine roots to get fruit? Replies: 15
Posted By: Norcalfran Views: 806
 
Thank you JDSFrance! I would love to hear how your test turns out. I look forward to your report.

Subject: Write a book? Replies: 5
Posted By: Norcalfran Views: 290
 
Thanks Vladis. Is it in English? Sounds like it would be hard to find, even in Russian.

Subject: root pruning Replies: 21
Posted By: Norcalfran Views: 2,544
 
Thanks. Sorry for the duplication!

Subject: Write a book? Replies: 5
Posted By: Norcalfran Views: 290
 
Have any of you guys considered writing a definitive book about growing figs? I looked on Amazon and couldn't find a single one.

It could be published through Storey Publishing or a similar gardening/homesteading specialty publisher. Or self-published!

Maybe some of the proceeds could help fund the Fig Foundation?

Subject: Need to confine roots to get fruit? Replies: 15
Posted By: Norcalfran Views: 806
 
Thank you! I read up a bit on one of the root pruning threads, and will read more.

Is there any need to root prune if a tree is in the ground?

I would have to do the sharpened copper pipe technique that James described rather than dig it up, obviously.

Just planted the trees a few weeks ago. They are just 2' tall with calipers of 1/2" to 3/4". So I'm thinking into the future here. Maybe since they're in the ground there is no advantage to root pruning? Or would it still be stimulating to them if done after several years? Or will the damned gophers "root prune" for me, whether I like it or not? Lol. (P.s. I planted all trees in protective chicken wire gopher baskets).

--------

Also, some of the trees were a bit root-bound in their small 4" square x 8" tall nursery containers. Out of ignorance, I didn't loosen their rootballs too much before planting. But now they're in the wide open ground... So will they correct that themselves?

I'm in zone 9, Northern California.

Subject: root pruning Replies: 21
Posted By: Norcalfran Views: 2,544
 
Is there any need to root prune if a tree is in the ground?

I would have to do this copper pipe technique rather than dig it up, obviously.

Just planted the trees a few weeks ago. They are just 2' tall with calipers of 1/2" to 3/4". So I'm thinking into the future here.

--------

Also, some of the trees were a bit root-bound in their small 4" square x 8" tall nursery containers. Out of ignorance, I didn't loosen their rootballs too much before planting. But now they're in the wide open ground... So will they correct that themselves?

I'm in zone 9, Northern California.


Quote:
Originally Posted by james
You should bare-root your potted trees occasionally... especially if you feel they are root bound.  If you pot-up your tree without removing the old growing mix, you run the risk of the original mix compacting as the roots grow through it and grow larger.  This can cause the roots to girdle and prevent nutrient flow between the top and bottom of the tree.

A 2' tree in a 25-30 gallon container is excessive.  Especially if you are considering planting the tree in the ground anytime in the next five years.  If the trunk of your tree is less than 3/4-1" in diameter, a 3-5 gallon container will be more than enough to hold your tree for the next few years.  Currently I have five trees which are 6+feet tall with trunk calipers in excess of 1 1/4 inches growing in either 3 gallon nursery pots or five gallon white buckets.  All of these I will bump up to a 15 gallon container next year, and will probably stay in that size containers for at least 3 years. 

My guess is that your trees are not root bound in a 25 gallon container after 2 years.  Just the same, if you'd like to root prune, you can cut out two pie shape wedges about 1/6th (total of 1/3) of the container and remove the growing mix and roots and replace with fresh growing mix.  Next year take out another 2 sections and the next year the last 2 sections.  Your tree will be completely root pruned every three years.  Another solution is to get a 1 - 1.5 inch copper pipe and drive it down into your growing mix in several places.  You could punch 2-3 holes per month during the growing season.

~james

Subject: Need to confine roots to get fruit? Replies: 15
Posted By: Norcalfran Views: 806
 
Interesting. Two more root questions:

1. If I get a tree that is root bound out of the pot, should I try to "loosen" the roots before planting in the ground? Or just put the whole thing in and let the tree figure it out?

2. Let's say I get a tree that is a few years old from a friend. It has an unknown history, but has probably been stuck in an undersized pot, suffered lack of water, and otherwise neglected... Is that tree worth putting in the ground? Or am I better off getting a younger tree from a nursery which is maybe smaller, but has never been stressed out?

In other words, once a young tree has been set back or stressed out in its first few years, will it bounce back if put in better conditions? Or do you think that it would be permanently stunted due to "childhood trauma"?

Subject: Need to confine roots to get fruit? Replies: 15
Posted By: Norcalfran Views: 806
 
Thanks guys! Glad to hear it. I thought it sounded a little suspect. But then, since figs are native to fairly rocky/poor soils (true?) I though I'd better confirm.

Subject: Announcing the Figs 4 Fun Foundation Replies: 104
Posted By: Norcalfran Views: 23,221
 
This is so great. Thank you for all your work. And for passing it along to future fig growers. I just donated!

Subject: Need to confine roots to get fruit? Replies: 15
Posted By: Norcalfran Views: 806
 
I read that when you plant a fig tree in the ground, ideally you need to confine the roots inside a well drained concrete box or with bricks or rocks in a ring around the roots in the soil.

The book said that if you don't do this, the fig will take many years before it starts to make fruit. I'm a little skeptical, but is there any truth to this? Or is it a myth?