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Subject: Three cultivars got ripe fruits here: they are: Replies: 81
Posted By: Charley Views: 3,674
 
Herman2,

Your regular updates are really appreciated and are valuable.

Subject: How to start a Worm Casting Farm of your own. Replies: 30
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,042
 
One advantage of having the worms in the soil where the plants are growing is that they will create some fairly deep chanels.  This promotes aeration and good moisture penetration, carrying nutrients.  The worms will not harm roots.  All that is really necessary is to put some worm food on the surface.  About any organic material will do the job but meat and dairy are not a good.  Fertilize with some cheap dog food that is mostly grain or use rabbit food.  Those will be converted by the worms and microbes into nitrogen nutrients as well as having their other minerals broken down and taken deeper into the soil.  Soybean meal becomes 6% nitrogen.  Applying some lower doses of the trace minerals along with it and the worms will do the fertilizing for you.  Maybe some Azomite or Greensand along with some humates once or twice a year.  Put on some organic material once a month in the warm seasons when the worms are near the surface and active.

Subject: Will 27 F overnight freeze my fig? Replies: 9
Posted By: Charley Views: 428
 
Generally the forecasts are pretty accurate on temps.  Morning forecasts of evening lows are very good and pretty acccurate for several days out.  Cold temps arrive from west or northwest direction this time of year.  Whatever St. Louis or Indianapolis gets will be here in a day or two at the most.

Most branches have lignified and turned nice and brown.  Those are still small diameter however.

Thanks for the help and advice on what to look for.

Subject: Will 27 F overnight freeze my fig? Replies: 9
Posted By: Charley Views: 428
 
Thanks for the help.
Looks as if tomorrow will be a lot warmer than tonight as far as getting it covered.
Tomorrow evening and the next several will be even colder though.
I'll have to do a little work tomorrow.

Subject: Will 27 F overnight freeze my fig? Replies: 9
Posted By: Charley Views: 428
 
I have a fig planted inground that froze completely back to roots last winter.  New growth came late so it is only about 1" diameter.  Overnight temp is forecast at 27 F.  Will the main branches survive that without damage.  I suppose I could get something over it but not the coverage I want to use.  I've just been dragging on getting it completed.

Subject: Ebay figs and second chances Replies: 28
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,172
 
Those "second chance" offers are done to keep prices high.
If they actually listed the ten items on ebay, the prices would likely be lower.
With only one item listed, and possibly some shill bidding help, it causes the bidding to be higher for that one item.  Then give others the "opportunity" to buy at that price without holding another auction to actually test the market.

Subject: Espalier fig project - Japanese method Replies: 61
Posted By: Charley Views: 3,182
 
The high hoop structure is necessary as it is used to hang the support for the verticals.

In a smaller yard situation, a two foot high or so removeable hoop could be used for the winter protection, maybe just have the horizontals 6" above ground level.
I have space for only a short length of horizontals and , hence, only a modest number of verticals at a one foot spacing.
I plan to just use some of the six ft. tall green stakes from HD to support the verticals and keep them from breaking off in a breeze.
Not the plan for the most productive arrangement with larger space and good sunlight.  However in my situation it should allow me more varieties and good winter protection.

Subject: Pictures - 15th Sept RdB Harvest Replies: 23
Posted By: Charley Views: 920
 

Those are pictures that generate hope for the rest of us.
With some time and attention, possibly I will have something like that beautiful harvest.
Whatever you've done with that plant, it sure seems to be a growing success.

Subject: Mountain Figs - cold hardy early ripening Replies: 85
Posted By: Charley Views: 8,701
 
I want to thank all of you for the continuing updates and evaluations in this great thread.

Subject: Trees and cuttings update Replies: 48
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,573
 
I purchased a few plants from Almost Eden a few months ago.  Very healthy plants and well packaged for shipment.  Darned nice people to deal with.

I looks as if you will have quite a variety for sampleing next year.  Good luck wtih the project.

Subject: Earliest In-Ground Fig Fruit, No Protection, Zone 6b Replies: 80
Posted By: Charley Views: 3,414
 
I am going to try the step-over-espalier form for growing some plants in Kentucky.  A few comments about the burried cordons.  It would seem to a method for protecting more roots of the same plant.  However it not particularly different from planting rooted cuttings closely and expecting to have all plants rejuvinate from roots after being frozen back to ground.  The practical results will be the same as thinning the resulting bush, multistemmed growth, that follows dying back to ground. 

I'm just a beginner at figs, but it seems to me that the key to getting early shoot development and growth is either warmer ground or warmer stems/branches, or possibly both.  The deeper the soil cover the later the roots warmup.  While that soil cover provides temperature stability to survive the winter, it is going to be slow to warm and trigger growth.

My plan it to try to use two foot tall styrofoam sheets to create an above ground box, open to the soil.  Fill the box with dry leaves which will further insulate the cordons.  The heat resevoir of the soil should keep it from having the hard freeze and the box shields from winds, without being some large teepee arrangement.  Last winter the lows were about -6 F but the soil temperature at 4" depth did not get below 32 F.  I expect the section I'm going to cover and protect from surface air exposure to stay above that temperature.  The leaves can be pretty easily placed or removed with a leaf vac blower.  I hope to have some living above ground growth in the cordons to help trigger plant growth in the spring and be able to get pretty fast soil warmup when the insulation is removed. 

I have such limited space with adequate sunlight that I plan on only letting each plant and cordon be about three feet horizontal as a way to have more varieties.  That should also lead to smaller extent of root growth on the surface plane.  In any case it will probably require quite a lot of pruning and pinching to limit plant growth to only three or four verticals and no additional shoots from the ground.

Subject: In the bag - air pruning Replies: 14
Posted By: Charley Views: 2,193
 
Thanks for that update.  Since I'm rather close to you, I've been following your experiments.  Hope to read more on your methods.

Subject: OT. Franklinia Alatamaha Replies: 4
Posted By: Charley Views: 350
 
I once planted two fairly large ones and croaked them.

Be very careful about fertlizing them.  I believe it was the watering with some weak Miracle Grow that killed them.  At the time I had no clue as to why they died.  It was only several years later that I found the information.  Somewhat unusual tree with a good blooming time.  Just very sensitive to growing conditions. 

I ended up replacing with some magnolias and have had no problems with them. 

Subject: My first Ronde De Bordeaux fig Replies: 15
Posted By: Charley Views: 789
 
What is a treatment to deal with scale on fig trees?

Subject: Potting mix experiment- Semi-Gritty and Pro-mix combo Replies: 152
Posted By: Charley Views: 16,015
 
My suggestion was that the Diatomaceous Earth Absorbent could be an improvement on Turf-ace.  Both can be positive improvements to a mix, IMHO.

Subject: Potting mix experiment- Semi-Gritty and Pro-mix combo Replies: 152
Posted By: Charley Views: 16,015
 
I found this a very informative thread with lots of good information.

There was this post:
http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1273465832&postcount=82

Then there was this one:
http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1284064706&postcount=125

And then followed by this one:
http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1284070038&postcount=131

Were those supposed to add to the information stream concerning potting mix?

Subject: Potting mix experiment- Semi-Gritty and Pro-mix combo Replies: 152
Posted By: Charley Views: 16,015
 
I would prefer Diatomaceous Earth Absorbent rather than the clay.  Light weight and inexpensive.  Should maintain form indefinetly.
Available in coarse grade from Zoro with free shipping on $25 orders.
http://www.zoro.com/g/Diatomaceous%20Earth%20Absorbent/00107339/None

I've been wondering how the chatter about a Perched Water Table meshes with the successes of SIP growing methods. 
Those rely upon somewhat heavier mixes to allow for wicking of the water.  It sure does not seem to create dead roots.

Subject: Raccoon problems? Replies: 11
Posted By: Charley Views: 453
 
I was not really trying to say that the air gun would not work on a coon.
I'm just not confident enough to try it as it needs a first shot to the head.
Air guns are a little finicky with hold position and other factors.  I would hate to shoot one and have it get away wounded.
I have not tried it, but don't believe I could get three to the belly before it moved to the yard next door.  It takes a while to load another pellet on a break barrel air gun.

Subject: Raccoon problems? Replies: 11
Posted By: Charley Views: 453
 
My air gun problem is accuracy.  I have a relatively high powered break barrel .22 air gun and a good scope.  It works great on the squirrels and chipmunks.  Problem is first shot accuracy.  I'm not too worried about a wounded squirrel or chipmunk.  They will croak pretty soon.  I'm not so sure about a coon. 

Chipmunks at 30 yids are a challenge.  Head shots on even slow moving coons could be hard to connect.

Subject: Raccoon problems? Replies: 11
Posted By: Charley Views: 453
 
Is this something that will repel squirrels?

I have an occasional coon but lots of the bushy tailed tree rats.

Spraying the lawn with milk and using milorganite seemed to discourage them.

Coons are too beg to take out with my airgun.

Subject: Unk. Greek Mykonos Replies: 7
Posted By: Charley Views: 455
 
That fig sure looks great.  Large size and very jammy looking.

Congrats on having it growing for you and ripening.

Subject: How Cold and for How Long Replies: 12
Posted By: Charley Views: 608
 
After starting the thread and getting some good advice, some other ideas have caused me to wonder about keeping the trees cold to maintain dormancy.

How do people who live in warmer areas keep the trees continuously below the 40F or so level to keep the trees dormant.  The question relates to trying to over winter the trees in a 55F basement that can get warmer.  When I read of people growing these in north Georgia, I wonder how they keep the trees from budding during longer warm periods during the winter, followed by below freezing temperatures.

Subject: An apology, of sorts ... Replies: 30
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,032
 
That is an really nice story.  And also the follow up expansion.

Subject: Tree survival in the coldest winter in my area Replies: 16
Posted By: Charley Views: 697
 
Thanks for the great information.  I'll look for updates.  Maybe you can describe your winterization methods as you get to that point.  People raising a large number of trees can have a lot of work to do for that protection.

Subject: How Cold and for How Long Replies: 12
Posted By: Charley Views: 608
 
fignutty,
Of course you are correct on the MEAN winter temperature.  Lots of days with 50F highs during Dec and Jan.
Even with last winter's vortex the soil temp at 4" did not get below 32F.  And we never have snow cover lasting more than a week.
However the air temps can easily drop to 0F or lower for short periods.  In last winter's vortex extreme it was below 0F for over a week and I believe the absolute low may have hit minus 15F.  Generally not as bad as Chicago because the cold does not persist.  However it can get just as cold as Chicago for a few days.  And a few days is all that it takes to kill and top growth or possibly kill roots near the surface.  All of that leads to late spring growth starting from a plant much reduced in size and vigor.

Grasa,
Your suggestion may be what I have to go with.  It would mean doing the fig plant shuffle many times.  However, as long as the forecast lows are not going to be below 35F I suppose it could be done.  Put them back in the basement for a few days or maybe a week.  I just don't have a good sunny window with space for a couple of 5 gallon fig pots.  I would want to keep the potted ones relatively small anyway.  Maybe there is a way to do a Sack in Pot in Pot?  I don't believe I've seen pictures of anyone doing that though.

As to the question of winter being almost over, No, it is still several months away.

Subject: How Cold and for How Long Replies: 12
Posted By: Charley Views: 608
 
After reading that the basement remained too warm to keep them dormant, I did a bit of calling to some friends for storage suggestions.

One alternative may be to move them to a cave in a rock quarry.  One fellow has a small cave on the farm.  Limestone rock near the surface has disolved over the many years of water flowing from the hill side.  Of course both have a constant year round temp of about 54F and no sunlight.  Is that cool enough for over winter storage and maintaining dormancy?  I suspect the small farm cave will get cooler for some periods as it is not very deep into the hillside.

Subject: How Cold and for How Long Replies: 12
Posted By: Charley Views: 608
 
Ruuting and fignutty,

I thank you for the information.  It somewhat told me what I was hoping not to read.  One solution is to have a root cellar and the other is to load them up and haul to someone else's place for overwintering.  Those are not really good or convenient solutions but may be the only choices I have.

Subject: How Cold and for How Long Replies: 12
Posted By: Charley Views: 608
 

I am considering putting a couple of plants in pots in the lawn.  Those plants will have to be protected in the winter in my climate if they are to grow well.  I do not have a suitable garage space for them but there can be room for two in my basement.  Bring the pots inside after the frost knocks the leaves off of them.  The basement probably only gets to a low of 60F over winter.  Will that temp be low enough to keep them dormant if covered from light?  Or, is there a better way of dealing with this?

Subject: Fertilizers. Opinions....i'll start with my reasons. Replies: 13
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,052
 

The best thing would be to get a soil test every year or two.  Soil tests are really not much help for N needs as it will both leach and volatilize.  However, continual application of unneeded minerals will cause other minerals to be less available.  pH levels also change mineral availability.  I'm no expert on fig mineral needs.  It does seem from reading here that figs prefer an alkaline soil.  I would not want to drive the pH to greater than 7.5 because it will make many other elements much less available.  I would recommend Logan Labs as a very highly regarded testing laboratory.  They give results for many of the trace elements that can be very important for some crops.  Copper, boron, zinc, and manganese are probably important for figs as well as the larger components of calcium, magnesium, phosporus and potassium.  Logan reports them all.  I don't know if they are set up to give application rates or adjustments for figs.  Cost is about $25 and well worth it.

Adding some nitrogen using milorganite should do it.  More compost is always better as it becomes available as nitrogen when the microbes devour it.  fortunately those microbes are more active when figs and grass are most actively growing.  Those microbes will also cause some unbinding of the soil minerals.  The Espoma product with the mycorrizal fungi will send out the strands to seek out water and nutrients for the plant and the soil microbes.  That is what improves the soil structure over time.

I have not searched for it but I would guess that one of the ag oriented universities has done some research for nutrient needs for figs.  Maybe figs are not as important as corn, beans, wheat, or golf course turf but those guys are always looking for a new field to explore so they can get published.

Subject: An overdue step over update Replies: 46
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,779
 
I can believe the V system will give higher yields as there are more verticals.

However I'm not as certain about other parts of the comparison.  The leaves on the upper side of the slanted verticals will always shade the lower side.

In my case I need to have a somewhat flat form espallier, as if grown against a wall.  It could be in a garden bed adjacent to an open fence.

Subject: An overdue step over update Replies: 46
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,779
 
Thanks for the help with the good information.  I really appreciate you going over the thought process that you followed.  Since you have so many of the verticals anyway, it probably makes no sense to increase the shade with branches that are going to be removed at the end of the season.

Subject: Crushed by USPS Replies: 62
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,985
 
The advantage to using USPS is Saturday delivery and possibly cost.

The disadvantage is demonstrated in the pictures.

Subject: An overdue step over update Replies: 46
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,779
 
WillsC,

Thanks for the additional helpful information.  As you are useing that V shape, the PVC is necessary to provide some degree of horizontal support.

Since I'm in Kentucky with a much shorter growing season, and would use something to have growth in completely vertical orientation because of location, can you suggest what the spacing should be for the verticals?

Someone asked earlier in the thread about pinching to control the height.  Do you have any thoughts or plans to try that?  I'm asking because I have very limited knowledge of fig growing and don't fully understand how different methods affect yield.  If I were to pinch, it would not be for purposes of creating a branched tree for next season but for yield purposes, if that would happen.  Because of winter die back I would be cutting the verticals back as you plan to do.

Subject: An overdue step over update Replies: 46
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,779
 
WillsC,

My thought is that a slightly different support arrangement could be the posts with just one wire at the top.  Drop a narrow webbing strap from that to the rebar.  Attach the vertical growth to that strap using velcro loops.  The cross arms and the PVC would not be necessary in that design.  My question about it is whether you considered that, more along what I have seen of the Japanese method, and if you thought it would not work for your situation.

Subject: deep watering fig trees Replies: 22
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,326
 
I have seen a similar approach used for tree plantings.  I have not done it myself.

They used the black flex pipe that is already drilled.  Wrap that with a couple of wraps of landscape fabric.  Put in the planting hole to loop under the root ball.  Fill with 1' stone so it does not collapse.  Waters both sides and the bottom.

Subject: best squirrel protection Replies: 26
Posted By: Charley Views: 911
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Figinqueens
Rafelissimo- would love that trap but have a feeling it wouldnt be long before a neighbor calls ASPCA on me.  My "backyard" is a common driveway that is visible from the backs of many houses.  What part of queens are you in?

I will try to drape and tie.  I know that the squirrels have been reaching through the netting and grabbing lots of unripe blackberries, but their growth is different and closer to the netting.  thanks again for helping a newbie out.


I'm not in NY so don't know the regulations there.  However people can regularly trap pests for removal.  Will the ASPCA visit you for trapping a squirrel in the attic?  I once had a jogger ring the doorbell at 7:00 am to tell me I had a squirrel in my trap in the front yard and the squirrel seemed to want out.  I only wish I had thought to tell them I would get the .22 pistol to take care of the problem. 

On another occasion the local animal control officer stopped by to ask about the trap.  I first told him I sold them to restaurants to make burgoo stew.  Then I showed him the holes they had knawed in the facia board.  No problem.

In the back yard I use another approach.  The hawks enjoy the free meal.

Subject: An overdue step over update Replies: 46
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,779
 
WillisC,

That is one very darned good idea.  I does look very cool, too.
As to a solution to the problem of too many airlayered plants, I believe you are familiar with Ebay.  Could you consider it a third crop?

Your implementation of something similar to the Japanese method is pretty nifty.  And I know you put a lot of thought into the plan.  I wonder if you considered just running a cable through the top of the vertical posts and using a drop strip of webbing with velcro loops attaching the verticals.  It would result in a lighter structure.  One feature I really like is that it would be so easy to winterize it here in Kentucky.  I have an abundance of oak leaves every fall.  It would be pretty easy to just blow them into a strip covering the trimmed figs, then cover with some carpet.

Subject: Question: Effective Root Zone in 5 Gallon Buckets Replies: 25
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,446
 
I've been trying to decide how to take care of some figs.  I've been reading links and recommendations for a couple of weeks.  One thought I had was to try a fabric lined Pot-in-Pot method.  If I can drill the large holes up the sides in both pots at the same time so that they match, use the fabric on the inner pot to reduce the size of the roots escaping the fabric, the inside pot, and the aligned outside pot it should be fairly easy to pull then if I want.  Maybe I will still get the benefit of in-ground planting as it relates to moisture and nutrients.

Subject: Oh no, not my Gk Yellow??? Help!!! Replies: 47
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,057
 
If you add maybe 1 oz of baby shampoo to several gallons of the watering solution it should be much easier to rehydrate the soil, then the tree.  Dried out materials can become hydrophobic.  A bit of shampoo can be a wetting agent.

Subject: Question: Effective Root Zone in 5 Gallon Buckets Replies: 25
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,446
 
I was sort of thinking about something with a fairly long shovel head but not too wide.  Narrower should be better as it would take less effort to push into the ground and the cutting / digging would be closer to the pot.  The closest thing I could think of is a trenching shovel, something like your first pictured tool.

Depending upon soil type, something like a machette could also work.  Water heavy on the outside of the pot and come back the next day to cut her out.

Subject: Question: Effective Root Zone in 5 Gallon Buckets Replies: 25
Posted By: Charley Views: 1,446
 
I imagine that you must do some digging to shear the roots before you can pull the bucket.  Is there some sort of handy-dandy digger that you use to do that?  After that, is there any special method you use to pull the bucket out of the hole?  I can also imagine that a stuck bucket could be a more than a little problem.  I does seem to be a great method.

Subject: Help, Advice, Instruction with Brown Turkey Fig Replies: 15
Posted By: Charley Views: 567
 

Another try with the pictures.  I think I need to drastically reduce the number of spikes/stems and only leave two figs in the area.

Subject: Potted Culture Limestone Question Replies: 44
Posted By: Charley Views: 2,068
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chivas
I always use dolomite lime, I know it is safe, I have put lbs on tree pots with no ill effect.  I had some hydrated lime but I never put it on anything as it would kill plants easily.


The fast acting pellitized lime is useful for applications to turf and planting beds.  In those cases use it at about 10# / 1,000 sft per application to gradually raise the soil pH.  It can safely be done once a month if necessary based upon soil test.   Look at the bag label to tell if there is also magnesium in the product.  Pellitized lime can also be Calcitic Lime - no magnesium.  The granular lime is normally Dolomitic lime - Calcium and Magnesium in the crushed stone. 

Get a soil test.
Use Calcitic Lime to add immediately available calcium.
Use Epsom Salt to add immediately available Magnesium.

Subject: Potted Culture Limestone Question Replies: 44
Posted By: Charley Views: 2,068
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ascpete
Rich,
The Soil Doctor Pelletized Lawnlime is not the same as "Fast Acting Lime", which is a highly processed limestone product. The Pelletized lime is only limestone dust that is mixed with an inert water soluble binder and formed into pellets. The fast-acting refers to the smaller particle size that breaks down faster when applied to the soil and watered in as opposed to the larger grain size of Granular or Pulverized. I've used Pelletized and Pulverized Limestone interchangeably, though I prefer the pulverized.

Fast Acting Lime is closer to hydrated Lime and is several time more concentrated and caustic.
fast_acting_lime_6lb.jpg.thumb_1000x1000.jpg


The Fast Acting Lime and the Pelletized Lime are the same thing.  Fast Acting results from the lime being in a very fine powder form.  A binder is added to that powder to create something that can stick together and be formed into the easily spread small pellets.  Once water hits those pellets the binder disolves changing it back into the powder form.  Fast Acting lime is hydrated lime, just combined with a binder.  It is not more concentrated, the minerals are just more immediately available than when supplied in grannular form.  It is the availability factor which has been changed.

Subject: Covering pots / Rainguards Replies: 11
Posted By: Charley Views: 675
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by james
Unless the light colored cover is completely opaque, even small amount of light will allow for algae growth.


Perhaps that is the reason for the recommendation of using grannular limestone as a topping for the container soil.  The grannular limestone will add little lime or calcium to the growing soil but will keep the surface to alkaline for the algae to grow.  Just a thought on a possibility.

Subject: Potted Culture Limestone Question Replies: 44
Posted By: Charley Views: 2,068
 
Calcium makes the soil alkaline.  It is a chemical reaction.  The way to speed up a chemical reaction is to use finer ground particals of the elements.  Pellitized lime is very fine lime dust with an added binder that makes it easier to spread.

You could likely add a shovel full of washed grannular dolomite with little effect on the soil pH in a pot.  A half cup of pellitized lime may be too much, depending upon starting pH.  Within the soil, the pH determines the availability of the minerals.  Very few plants will grow at optimum at a pH level above 8.  The other required minerals are bound into the soil and not floating around to be available for exchange.

Subject: Help, Advice, Instruction with Brown Turkey Fig Replies: 15
Posted By: Charley Views: 567
 
Finally got some cell phone pictures.  I could not figure out how to post them for the image to show.  I hope you will try the links.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/m0wrbfw2ckwxszd/2014-06-23%2019.55.53.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6cc5rpf8hzkluhu/2014-06-23%2019.52.04.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w2hf5be75963ie9/2014-06-23%2019.50.56.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fhhddgg1tgtdb6i/2014-06-23%2019.53.34.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wl8c4t7d8dbxr1p/2014-06-23%2019.52.37.jpg

There seems to now be maybe 10 or so seperate plants.  All within the 4 X 10 space.  All beginning to send up "spikes" that last summer got to maybe 8 ft tall, straight up.  It was more the form of a very tall hydrangia but did have some figs. When I wrote before that they dropped, maybe the birds got them and I did not see it.  One day there may have been maybe 20 figs  on all of the stalks and two days later there were none on the tree.

Thanks for all of the good suggestions.  I would sure like some more input on what to do with this existing plant that seems to now be growing in a pretty healthy and vigorous way.

Subject: Help, Advice, Instruction with Brown Turkey Fig Replies: 15
Posted By: Charley Views: 567
 
One important factor I forgot to mention is sunlight.  The whole yard is shaded in some part or another all day.  The fig gets full sunlight for about two hours in the morning and three hours in the later afternoon.  Overall, probably more than 1/2 shade, although it is not a dense shade.  Still less than half day of full direct sunlight.

Subject: Help, Advice, Instruction with Brown Turkey Fig Replies: 15
Posted By: Charley Views: 567
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneDaniels
If you keep them, reduce to 3-5 stems so the ones you keep will be stronger. But it sounds like these are spread over two spots, so I would remove one and plant a Hardy Chicago. Mine froze to almost the ground last winter but it is up and running with 2-3 dozen figs on the new growth. And best of all, you will LOVE the taste of this fig.


I have been reading here and trying to figure out the hardiness differences.  I thought I had concluded that one of the Sal's versions could work well.  Some here have written that Hardy Chicago is not as hardy as it is often reported to be.

I don't really doubt that the plant I have is Brown Turkey.  While I cannot be absolutely certain at this point, the nursery I bought the plant from was a darned good operation.  I expect they bought it from some supplier but they were the kind of operation that would be careful to check things out as to varieties  being as named.

In the last couple of weeks, since I have finally found life in this plant, I had decided to try to  take out a lot of it and restrict the number of stems of the remaining piece.  That would give me room to stick another one in there, as you suggest. 

Thanks

Subject: Help, Advice, Instruction with Brown Turkey Fig Replies: 15
Posted By: Charley Views: 567
 
I did have a soil test this spring on the lawn in that area.  No samples were taken to directly evaluate that 4' X 10' area though.  The pH was 6.1 with no glaring nutrient deficiencies.  Organic matter was 5.5% as a result of mulch mowing all grass and oak leaves.  The idea that oaks cause acidic soils in not quite right.  Almost all organic matter will cause an initial acidic environment.  However after the microbes finish breaking it down in a few months it tends to become more neutral.  The 6.1 is pretty good for growing grass but seems not ideal for figs.  The soil drainage is generally poor, however the fig is on a higher spot so is not harmed by pooling.

The only fertilization or watering it got was a result of applications to the lawn.  A couple of years ago I got back into lawn improvement so everything got more fertilizer and water.  Not enough to be adequate for the fig but better.  Winters of 2011 and 2012 were a bit warmer.  Those are the only times I recall getting leaves from any previous year brown wood.  A couple of surviving stems got to about 2' in diameter.  Last summer I did have a few figs, a first.  They seemed to drop before they matured and were fairly small.

I believe the reason for no crop in other years was that I allowed the fig to grow as much vegitation as possible, with little to no fertilization or attention to watering.  A great deal of summer growth for the roots to try to support and sustain with little nutrients and water available during the summer fruiting season.

Is it OK to try to dig, seperate and remove some of the excess plants.  If I somewhat hack them apart, saving roots, can those removed plants be successfuly transplanted.  And, if they can, is there a good method for not breaking off the somewaht delicate growth on those parts?