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Subject: New fig grower ... already addicted ! Replies: 24
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 386
 
Welcome aboard, Angela.  Great to see more Canadians here on this forum. 

Subject: Canadian Figger's Replies: 7
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 300
 
I ordered couple of fig plants and plumeria plants from him earlier this year.  They came very well packaged, by Canada Post.   I would order from him again if he has the varieties I want.

Subject: Wrapping a Fig Tree Replies: 11
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 296
 
That is quite amazing.  Wish that would work for Ottawa weather.

Subject: OT: Help diagnose disease for this Asian Pear Replies: 6
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 117
 
Thanks guys for the great info.  It does seem that Southern Ontario (where Windsor is located) have seen increasing fire blights infecting fruit trees in recent years (http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/fireblight.htm).  I would simply select a fire flight resistant cultivar if I am to plant a new tree.

Special thank to AltaFarm for the linked article.  I have learnt something new today.  I also mulch my small young trees around the bases with cedar chips.  I'll get the owner to remove those heavy mulch around that pear tree (if it's alive).

Subject: OT: Help diagnose disease for this Asian Pear Replies: 6
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 117
 
Quote:


Thanks for the link, Dave.  The symptoms described on this site are very similar to the photos.

Quote:
Originally Posted by alanmercieca
Like Dave has told you it's fire blight, I know very little about that part of Canada yet I know in New England USA blight diseases are common. Blight diseases are actually very common throughout much of the continental USA. I am guessing that it's new to that area of Canada. Our only pear tree is heavily blight resistant. That is why I got it. Where I live fire blight is very common.


Alan, we are in Ontario whose climate I would say is quite similar to that of New England's (for example, Ottawa is only one hour drive from New York state).  Fire blight is a problem for apples and pears here as well, except I am very new to this so it's hard for me to identify it.

This particular pear tree was grown from a seed of a Fragrant Pear (http://www.nytimes.com/2006/11/15/dining/15fruit.html) many years ago.  The owner was initially growing it in a pot just for fun and then later on planted it outside in his backyard.  Two years after planting it outdoors, it started flowering and fruiting.  He has not done any maintenance on the tree at all, including pruning.  And obviously he has no knowledge of various different diseases associated with pear trees here.



Subject: OT: Help diagnose disease for this Asian Pear Replies: 6
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 117
 
I am seeking assistance in diagnosis of an issue with a relative's Asian pear tree.  I know there are very knowledgeable folks here when it comes to fruit trees.

The tree in question is located in Windsor, Ontario (right next to Detroit, MI) and have had fruited for several years until recently. It had never been treated/sprayed. Earlier this year, soon after the blossom, the owner noticed that the leaves started drying up and falling off. The small fruits also started drying up but hanging on to the tree branches. I have enclosed some photos (please see link before) that were retaken recently. He has asked me to find out what the issue is and the solution is (if the tree is still alive).

Thanks advance for the help.

I don't live in the same city but I could get more info if required.

https://flic.kr/s/aHskMMFXYK

Subject: Help, what are these tiny little creatures on the leaves Replies: 8
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 238
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cynthia24
They look like aphid left overs to me. Try a soap spray about a teaspoon to a half gallon of water. If you have a county agriculture person in your area (do a web search for your area, type in your county then agriculture center). You could then send him a picture or possibly take a few leaves to them to diagnose in person. They even have volunteers there who have taken classes and have been certified as "Master Hardners", Al least that is the way that the do it here in Orlando, Fl. Good Luck.


Cynthia, you are correct, those were aphid exoskeletons.  I found their owners hanging on the undersides of my plumeria plant above the fig plant.

Thank you for the suggestions of seeking help from our local Master Gardeners.  I didn't think of it and didn't think we would have them here (I am located in Ottawa, Canada).  A simple google search found at least one such group locally.  I will seek their advice on property treatments.

Have a good day.


Subject: Help, what are these tiny little creatures on the leaves Replies: 8
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 238
 
Kane, those were aphid exo skeleton sheds ineeds.  They came from the aphids hanging underneath the leaves of the plumeria plants with leaves hanging over the fig plant.  I used a vacuum to suck all those little creatures and wiped the leaves with warm soapy water.  Hopefully that would keep their population at bay.

Subject: Help, what are these tiny little creatures on the leaves Replies: 8
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 238
 
Thanks, Cheryl, for the suggestions.  I also expected them to fly around when I touch them, but they didn't.  Hard to know if they actually moved or not as they were so tiny. 

I will try the soapy water tomorrow.  If that doesn't work, I'll try your garlic solution.

Subject: Help, what are these tiny little creatures on the leaves Replies: 8
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 238
 
It was getting cold here so I brought couple of potted fig and plumeria plants indoor last week. Just today I noticed these little tiny creatures all over some of the leaves. When I touched them, they didn't move. Can someone tell me what they are and if there is a way to get rid of them?

I brought in the fig plants because they had really good size unripe figs that I was hoping they would ripe soon (a vain attempt perhaps?). The plumerias have started flowering after I brought them inside.

https://flic.kr/p/MDc5Jt

Thanks.

Subject: wintering figs zone 5 Replies: 14
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 300
 
Hi Rio,

Thank you for sharing your overwintering method.

Ottawa winter is similar to Montreal's.  I am looking to explore the overwintering method that you are using. 

My current issue is my basement does not have a root cellar (in which temperature is actually ideal for fig dormancy) and my attached garage is uninsulated and unheated and will have two cars in it.  I don't believe figs can survive the winter here being inside my garage.

Subject: Forcing dormancy of mature plants for winter storage before snow, slush and freeze Replies: 14
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 223
 
Thank you Akram for bringing up this topic and it's also relevant to me.  I have been wondering the same, especially with respect to the amount of rain we have now.  

Also thanks to jdsfrance for the suggestions.

I have just moved my really young fig plants into my kids' playhouse so they stay away from the rain and the frost (we are getting 0C/32F this weekend!).

Sorry Akram, this is not meant to hijack your thread, but I would like to ask a question along the same subject.  With respect to the really young fig plants (rooted earlier this year) that have only one main branch, should I try to preserve the main buds so they can continue to grow next season?  In this case, I will need to bring them inside early enough so the cold wouldn't kill off the buds.  Or pinch the bugs like Devin suggested? Or simply do nothing until the plants go completely dormant outside?

Subject: What to do with non-producing branches Replies: 4
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 107
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullet08
pinch them. if new branch doesn't give fig, pinch the bud every 5 leaves or so. it will force fig or new branch. there should be list of post regarding pinching.


Hi Pete, thanks for the tip.  I did pinch some of the branches (either after 5 or 6 leaves).  That didn't seem to do much for my BT.  I recall someone on this forum mentioned that pinching has no effect on BTs.

Subject: What to do with non-producing branches Replies: 4
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 107
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fignutty
Bill:

The only hope for fruit next yr on the wood you have now is breba. Next yrs main crop will only be on wood that grows next yr. In the past I've pruned off part of last yrs wood and still had some breba. It's not an all or nothing proposition.


Thanks Steve.  I'll probably prune off some of the weaker branches early next spring. 

Subject: What to do with non-producing branches Replies: 4
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 107
 
We had a frost warning this morning (we did!) so I harvested the three remaining figs (almost fully ripened) from what I believe a Brown Turkey fig tree.  I was quite happy that they were still very sweet.

Now I have a question regarding this BT.

At least half of the new growth branches didn't bear any fruit.  Will they bear a main crop come next year?  I am not pruning them off because I am hoping they will give me some brebas. 

So the general question is: For the nodes on the new wood that have yet bore any figs, will they bear fruit next year?

If I have already lost the opportunity on those non-producing nodes, then I would prune them off after the breba season next year.

[I just got this tree earlier this spring.  I up-potted it to a bigger pot.  So perhaps the disturbance affected the fruiting?]

Subject: Grafting Replies: 34
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 618
 
Hi Rio,

I did 5 t-buding grafting using cuttings I got from the good folks on this forum.  The t-buds came from the cuttings I got from the good folks on this forum (couple of months old, stored in the frig).  The root stocks were: 1) a good size fig tree I got from Ottawan (early violet, but not so early for producing figs apparently) and 2) a mature fig tree grown from seed.  I did my grafting early April.  Unfortunately none took.  I never saw any t-buds showed any sign of life.  They failed perhaps because the rootstocks were yet actively growing.

At the same time, I also did six whip and tongue grafting of Asian pears (cutting also stored for couple of months in the frig prior) on dormant rootstocks.  They all took and have been quite thriving (except one, which I mowed over with a lawn mower:( ).

BTW, this was my first grafting exercise.  I will try tongue and whip on the figs again come next spring.

Good luck on your grafting and please update on your progress later.

Subject: Toronto Fig tree give away Replies: 8
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 305
 
Thanks John for the generous offering.  Great for folks who live around Toronto area.  Wish it is close enough for me to make the trip.

Subject: OT: pulled pork Replies: 55
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 488
 
Great job! Thanks for sharing the photos.

This reminds me I need to do one soon.  I'd do mine in my ceramic kamado.

Subject: Dalmatie 2015 monsters Replies: 83
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 1,794
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DevIsgro
I believe I may have an extra conadria that I rooted this past spring that is well established. If you are interested send me a pm and if I have it, it's yours.


Thank you, Devin, for the generous offer.  It would not be possible to have it shipped across the border, as I live in Ottawa, Canada.

Thanks again!


Subject: Dalmatie 2015 monsters Replies: 83
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 1,794
 
Thanks for the tips, Joe.  I am growing all my figs in pots.  I noticed the Ciccio Nero was easier to root (I succeeded so it can't be that difficult!) and has grown more vigorously than others.  I will need to up-pot them next spring.

Subject: Dalmatie 2015 monsters Replies: 83
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 1,794
 
These are beautiful looking figs, Joe. You give me hope.  I have couple of young Dalmatie and Ciccio Nero plants (rooted earlier this year, cuttings from Tyler).  I'll keep my eyes out for Conadria cuttings this fall.

Subject: Propogation method up north Replies: 13
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 247
 
Thank you very much for sharing this rooting method.  It seems quite straight forward.

I am new to rooting cuttings and I had lost several batches of nice cuttings by using(exploring) various rooting methods (two cups, shoe-box, etc).  I finally used the bagging method and it seemed to work better.  I at least had rooted several cuttings this way.  I'll definitely try this simple bagging method come next spring.


Subject: Yet another help ID thread. Replies: 4
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 110
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerj
Hi Bill,

Congrats on tasting your first homegrown fig! :)

It isn't desert king as they are green exterior and reddish pulp. I'm not sure what variety it might be but one thing I can tell you for sure if you would have waited at least another 5-7 days before picking it the taste would have been exponentially better :). You want that white meaty part to start getting translucent and the centre to get really juicy.

Tyler


Thank you, Tyler, on pointing out the ripeness (the lack of) of that fig.   I was a bit worried that my little friends living/roaming in the backyard might get to it before me.  I'll be more patient for the next one :)

Have a great day.

Subject: Yet another help ID thread. Replies: 4
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 110
 
Oops..forgot to include photos of the leaves.

20160711_7451.JPG  20160711_7450.JPG 

This is a photo of the same fig one week earlier:

20160711_7448.JPG


Subject: Yet another help ID thread. Replies: 4
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 110
 
Hello folks,

Earlier in April I bought a fig tree locally from someone who has too many.  It had two good size brebas on the tree (he has a greenhouse, the danger of frost is early May where I am). The color of the figs were very light green.  Today I harvested one of them because it drooped over. 

Looking at the photos, can you tell me what variety it is?  (I was told that it was a desert king, but is it?).

I am super excited today because finally I tasted a tree ripen fig and the taste was just incredible! 20160715_7490.JPG   
20160715_7493.JPG  20160715_7495.JPG 

The this fig opened its eye in the last week or so.

Thanks.



Subject: OT-Garlic Replies: 49
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 489
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsfrance
Hi verynew2figs,
You take the leaves as a rope and make a node. This will prevent the leaves from making more leaves, and the plant will send the energy to the bulb, causing the bulbs to be bigger.
You have to do that near harvest time, because this causes the leaves to dry in the following weeks.
You can see some pics there : https://www.google.fr/search?q=nouer+l%27ail&biw=1138&bih=523&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwjQs5DP7u7NAhXGnBoKHT09ASgQ_AUIBygC&dpr=1.2


Hi JDS,

This is a really interesting practice. 

My garlic plants' leaves are now starting to turn brown (the tips of the leaves) and I would expect to harvest by end of July or early August.  Would you say now it's too late to do this?

Thanks,

Subject: OT-Garlic Replies: 49
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 489
 
This is a great thread.  I've been a long time gardener, but only second year growing garlic.  The first year, I cheapened out and bought garlic from grocery stores to plant (big mistake!).  They came out quite small (softneck and hardneck).  Then last fall, I bought some locally grown garlic (mostly the Music variety) and planted them in October in a raised bed.  I mulched it heavily.  Because the weather was unusually warm here in late fall, the garlic already germinated and started putting out little buds before the snow came.  I covered them up with a black landscape fabric mulch.  And came this spring, they were growing like weeds.

I harvested all the scapes last week.  I must say they tasted great in stir-fries with beef.   I am planning to plant a lot more this coming fall so I could just have tasty scapes!  My garlic plants have mostly green leaves still.  I'll wait till they have about 4-5 green leaves left and then start harvesting them.  The local garlic festivals start here the first week of August, there is when the local farmers harvest theirs.

I see some folks cut the scapes.  I suppose if you have many garlic plants, that is the fastest way to do it.  However, because I only have about 100 or so plants, I prefer to pull them out gently.  That way, I could harvest the more tender part of the scape.  There was no risk of pulling out the plant because of its root system is quite strong.

Pino, you have bumper crop!  Amazing job in braiding them.  I was told by local folks here that, unlike onions, garlic should not be dried under the sun when pulled.  In stead, they should be hang in shaded area to cure.

Subject: pinching practice on San Pedro figs Replies: 8
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 317
 
Thanks Charles for the response.

I grow all my figs in pots so their sizes would probably never get over 6' tall.  I am planning to prune them yearly so as to keep them in manageable sizes. 

>> Covering to get a main crop is a waste of time, so pinch it off.

Do you imply putting them in a greenhouse to extend the growing season?

We definitely don't have wasps up here so I would assume any main crop would fall off naturally.

Subject: pinching practice on San Pedro figs Replies: 8
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 317
 
I've been reading up on pinching off the bud of a new growth branch after the 6th leaf (or 4th or 5th) in order to promote fig embryos formation and in-time ripening of figs in cooler climates.  This makes sense to me for main crop producing fig trees.  However, I am not quite sure if the same practice can be applied to San Pedro type of figs, such as Desert King.  Would you also pinch the bud after the nth leaf (where n=4 for Zone 4 and 5?)?  Would someone share their pinching practice that has worked for them (what I mean by "has worked" is: maximize brebas, as main crop wouldn't ripen where there is no fig wasp).  I tried to search but couldn't find what I am looking for.

Thanks.

Subject: NERO 600M RIPE FRUIT PIC Replies: 23
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 571
 
Congratulations!

It's incomprehensible to me that someone is already eating freshly ripen figs off the tree, while I am still deciding if it's safe to move my couple of plants outside :(

Subject: OT Rooting pear cuttings Replies: 9
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 121
 
Pino,

It's quite sad to hear that people abandoned their orchards, especially when I have been dreaming of having one myself.  Perhaps next spring I should make a trip down to Niagara just to get some free rootstocks for some fruit plants.  Since most of those fruit trees were probably grafted on good rootstocks, getting those suckers as rootstocks is as good as buying new ones.

If only I knew that pear scions could be grafted onto apple rootstocks (probably crapapples too?) because I just cut out about 20 or so suckers around the base of my crapapple tree last week.

Phil and jds, thanks for confirming what I have suspected: the cuttings are using their internal energy to support those new leaves without having any roots.  I suspect my cuttings will eventually wither and die.




Subject: OT Rooting pear cuttings Replies: 9
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 121
 
Bench graft is grafting done on the bench: with the scion being grafted on the a rootstock that is bare root. And the whole plant is then planted.

Subject: OT Rooting pear cuttings Replies: 9
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 121
 
Thanks Richie for the encouraging words.  I will keep my eyes out!

Pino, that is a great way to get rootstocks.  Grafting is my plan B (I've saved another few scions).  I have already asked someone to get me some rootstocks from a nursery close to Guelph.  Your way of getting rootstocks is much more economical.  Unfortunately, I have not seen any pear trees in my neighbourhood or would know where to find one.  I will attempt bench graft using the whip and tongue method.  Please tell me if there is a better method.


Subject: OT Rooting pear cuttings Replies: 9
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 121
 
Hi folks,

Just curious if any one ever successfully rooted pear cuttings?  I'd gotten few Asian pear cuttings from a relative and attempted to root them (perlite+coco coir in a shoe-box method).  The cuttings must be very viable because every exposed bud opened up and put out some little leaves.  However, it has been over 4 weeks now and there is no sign of any roots coming out.

Thanks,

Subject: Regarding winter covering- arbor? Replies: 2
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 92
 
I have not read about a permanent arbor, but here I read about someone having a "Figatorium" (figs4fun.com/Overwintering_Fig_Trees_Biggs.pdf, page 11/12).

Subject: Grafting tape used to seal top cutting? Replies: 13
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 286
 
Thanks, Meg. Do you put parafilm only on the upper part of the cutting, that is, the part that has buds? And I believe you do that before the rooting process?

Subject: Grafting tape used to seal top cutting? Replies: 13
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 286
 
I tried to search the forum for this but failed to find the answer.

I have seen photos here from several forum members showing their cuttings being rooted.  Some  cuttings seem to have what appeared as grafting tapes wrapped around the top parts of the cuttings, when potted in small cups.  Is this being done to prevent moisture lost during the rooting process?

Would someone be kind enough and explain this practice? 

Thanks in advance,


Subject: Help: how to force apical top to bud out in a cutting Replies: 12
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 265
 
Thank you all for the suggestions and recommendations.  This thread has been very educational to me!

For the next rooting project, I will do without hormone.

Subject: Help: how to force apical top to bud out in a cutting Replies: 12
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 265
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rafaelissimmo
Toysan have you been using hormone? Many times hormone will produce roots but inhibit bud break. I have several times seen an apical bud form 1 or no leaves, and then totally stop growing for an entire season, while a side bud takes over and becomes the dominant branch of the tree. Then the next season, in spring, both buds will break. Its just the odd nature of some cuttings.


Rafael, I have in fact been using a powder hormone. if I could get side buds, I wouldn't really care if the apical bud stays dormant for a season . My concern is that the apical bud might be the only viable bud. Would you suggest not using any hormone at all?

Subject: Help: how to force apical top to bud out in a cutting Replies: 12
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 265
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by VeryNew2Figs
I can tell you my limited experience. I cut the top off a one year old tip cutting. At least five new branches grew at the top. On a cutting that's s few months old looks like three or four buds are forming at the top. My thought is that the roots are important. I personally would let it grow for a while until you have good roots and then cut it back. If you have enough cuttings you could try cutting the top of one now and another after it's been going for awhile and see which works better for you. With all that being said, all of my tip cuttings opened sooner or later. HTH


Thanks, Cheryl.  Appreciate the tips. 

Do you usually cut out the tip before starting the rooting process?

Subject: Help: how to force apical top to bud out in a cutting Replies: 12
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 265
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcantor
What 'soil' do you have them in?  If the roots are healthy and over 2" long try some very dilute fertilizer.  Look for instructions on houseplant strength and use half of that or less.


I use perlite + coco coir as my rooting medium (about 50% each), in a shoe-box.  I mist the mixture once in awhile when I see the top is drying out.  How would you apply the diluted fertilizer in this case?  Also misting?

Last week, I saw couple of cuttings with massive roots, but still apical bud not budding now, so I potted them up in a mixture perlite+coco coir+potting soil (I think it's Miracle Grow).  These are kept in an Ikea transparent tote box to keep the humidity high.  I will try to apply some diluted fertilizer to these.



Subject: Help: how to force apical top to bud out in a cutting Replies: 12
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 265
 
I've several healthy looking cuttings in a shoe-box being rooted.  They are the apical part of the branches.  They have developed pretty nice roots so far.  However, the top buds have done anything, that is, to bud out.  I have other sections of the cuttings that have already shot out side branches (from side nodes). 

My question, is there anything I could do to "encourage" the apical buds to start budding (the wordings sounds funny, but hope you all know what I mean here)?  Temperature is around 21C (room temp. at home) and pretty humid inside the box, as I mist it once in awhile.

Thanks.

Subject: What would kill a fig budding, temperature or frost in the spring? Replies: 23
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 523
 
Thanks, Akram.  That is an informative article.

Subject: Growing figs from seeds Replies: 14
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 21,883
 
Is this an attempt to discover a new variety?

Subject: A Happy Day Replies: 9
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 308
 
Congratulations!

I have checked out his website and was not aware that he sells fig trees/plants/cuttings.  His website contains tons of information on fig varieties and it's my go to bible.

Subject: My FIgaholics Youtube Channel Replies: 22
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 601
 
Thank you for posting these grafting videos.  I am new to figs and have been struggling with rooting cuttings.  I will try my hands on grafting good varieties on couple of existing fig plants which are not ideal for my location but have excellent roots.


Subject: What would kill a fig budding, temperature or frost in the spring? Replies: 23
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 523
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsfrance
Hi,
Here I heard that until the 4th of May, this year, we have a "lune rousse" / " redhead moon".


JDS, we followed our Luna calendar for agriculture where I came from, but never heard of a "lune rousse" before.  This probably explains the weather patterns we have been having lately.  We are still in the middle of a long "Polar vortex"!

Subject: What would kill a fig budding, temperature or frost in the spring? Replies: 23
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 523
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OttawanZ5
Bill,
Just from observations that when I covered a plant with synthetic cloth, i observed cold burns during the night due to plastic cloth touch and when I woke up late the sun had more damage when plastic was used. It is not just the insulation.
I guess that if plastic was not touching the leaves there may be no damage to the leaves due to cold near freezing but if not removed soon enough on a sunny day then heat trap may cause the problem,


Akram, sounds like having a cover could be a double edge sword.  It could create retain so much heat that the heat would also damage the plants in the early morning.

Subject: What would kill a fig budding, temperature or frost in the spring? Replies: 23
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 523
 
Wow, sorry to hear that guys.  Hopefully they will rebound back quickly. That is exactly what I am trying to avoid. 

>> I actually covered a couple of the smaller trees with thin table clothes and they have more leaf damage than the ones that were left uncovered. I've got no idea why.

barnhardt9999, just curious, were the tale clothes very close to/in contact with leaves/buds?

> If it was plastic table cloth then it should have been expected. Cotton cloth is safer in such cases.

Akram, is it because cotton cloth is a better insulator than plastic sheet when in contact?

I am curious if any fig growers from North Carolina  or the surroundings had their fig plants protected by cold frames or unheated greenhouse and did not see any frost damages?

Subject: What would kill a fig budding, temperature or frost in the spring? Replies: 23
Posted By: toisanwu Views: 523
 
Once you have many fig plants growing, it would be really impossible to do frequent shuffling in and out of the garage.  This probably means one would have to go by the local last frost date (in our case, it's May 6th!).  I was hoping by using an unheated cold frame, I could at least move them out couple of weeks earlier to get them an early start. 

Akram, interestingly, I am trying to do this for the Early Violet plant you gave me.  I was hoping this would help the figs ripen in our region.

Alan, your points are well taken with regard to extremely cold temperature killing the fig trees.  My first fig tree was killed that way couple of years ago when I left it in the unheated shed over the winter.  Now, I am trying to explore the possibilities of getting the fig trees an early start in our cool region by using a cold frame to protect the young buds/leaves in the early spring from the occasional frosts.